Running in Tokyo: the capital of the East
- audreyubertino
- 3 days ago
- 4 min read
Nestled in the bay of the same name, Tokyo is a sprawling megacity at the heart of the world’s most populous urban area. Seen from the air, it appears to stretch all the way to the centre of Honshu, the main island. Yet, as you make your way through this immense concrete labyrinth, you’ll discover linear business districts and winding alleyways. Within them, Shinto shrines stand side by side with maid cafés, and sumptuous parks sit alongside skyscrapers...
‘Tokyo operates at two speeds. On the one hand, there are the vast thoroughfares, the concrete bridges and the surges of people. On the other, there are the tiny neighbourhoods and the dimly lit alleyways lined with blank façades and fluttering banners.’
This quote from Jean-Christophe Grangé’s book Kaïken captures the atmosphere of the Japanese capital. On the one hand, there are several business districts with wide pavements, which, outside office hours, allow you to run for kilometres.
On the other hand, nestled in the heart of modern Shinjuku, surrounded by skyscrapers, lies Golden Gai. A tiny neighbourhood flanked by a temple, consisting of small two-storey buildings, often dilapidated and crammed together. This hotspot of Tokyo’s nightlife, filled with tiny bars, is one of the few remaining examples of the city’s pre-Second World War architecture, following which the city’s layout was completely redesigned.
Asakusa: between tradition and mass tourism
To the north-east of Tokyo lies the Asakusa district, known for its Buddhist temple, Sensō-ji. Dedicated to the gods of wind and thunder, Fujin and Raijin, you often come across Japanese people dressed in traditional costume there. Packed with craft stalls selling kimonos, kitchenware and even wax food replicas, the neighbourhood is very popular with tourists despite its out-of-the-way location.
Asakusa is also home to around twenty geishas, whom you might spot during your run. After running for a few minutes, you’ll soon reach the Skytree. Standing 634 metres tall, this broadcasting tower is open to visitors and offers two viewing platforms. However, there is an admission charge for this vertical journey, and on the other side of the city, in Shinjuku, you’ll find an equally impressive (and free!) panoramic view from the top of the Tokyo Metropolitan Building.
Akihabara, the electronics district
Every otaku – a Japanophile version of a geek – simply must visit Akihabara, nicknamed ‘Electric Town’. In the centre, near the station, there is a huge shopping centre housing the major Japanese electronics retailers. However, its success is down to the fact that it is surrounded by hundreds of tiny, highly specialised shops.
As you walk through the shops, look out for the vertical signs: they’ll tell you on which floor you’ll find a particular product.
The atmosphere is just as electric. The arcades blare out J-Pop, countless neon lights flash, whilst the maids from the nearby cafés try to lure in the many passers-by. Running through these streets is therefore an extraordinary experience.
Meiji Shrine, between Shibuya and Shinjuku
Between Shibuya, the shopping district teeming with young Japanese women, and Shinjuku, the business district dotted with iconic skyscrapers, lies Yoyogi Park. It is a veritable urban forest, within which lies a vast shrine, the Meiji-jingū.
Compared to the red and gold temple in Asakusa, Meiji-jingū is a tribute to Japanese simplicity. Its gates (torii) are devoid of decoration, apart from three gold finials on their central beams. The rest of the temple, built of dark wood, contrasts sharply with the green roofs and the surrounding trees.
On a stroll through the western part of the city, you can leave the hustle and bustle of Shibuya Crossing behind and head into Yoyogi Park, where you’ll feel as though you’ve stepped into a Studio Ghibli film.
From there, after, for example, performing the ritual ablutions in the ancient basin at the temple entrance, head back out into the bustling streets of Shinjuku, before making your way to the park of the same name, famous for its tropical greenhouses.
Pandas, palaces and gardens in Ueno
When they hear the name Ueno, many people who have made Tokyo their home will think ‘pandas’. In fact, even if you decide to avoid the endless queue outside their enclosure, you won’t be able to escape the ubiquity of these two-coloured bears. Every shop within a kilometre or so – from bakeries to clothes shops – sells merchandise featuring them! Ueno Zoo is also home to various more local species, such as the Hokkaido grizzly bear. If you decide to go for a run through the zoo itself, there are almost invisible windows looking out onto the enclosures, and you might find yourself face to face with this gigantic bear (weighing several hundred kilos!) as you round a corner.
If you walk along the path leading to the Tōshō-gū Shrine, you will find a stone memorial with a flame that burns perpetually in memory of the atomic bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki.
Just a stone’s throw away, the Imperial Palace beckons. Surrounded by moats, you’ll come across plenty of joggers there during your morning run.
Street workout equipment, which is very common in Tokyo’s parks and green spaces, is also likely to be used by athletes of all ages.
Run, walk or cycle with JOOKS, from Asakusa to Shinjuku!
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