Running in Lille: the capital of Flanders
A trading centre since the Middle Ages and a manufacturing hub since the 16th century, Lille was also at the heart of the Industrial Revolution, which had a profound impact on its urban development. Today, it is a city of many faces, where ancient fortifications stand side by side with industrial buildings. On a run through the city, you’ll also discover magnificent regenerated neighbourhoods, which earned it the title of ‘world capital of design’ in 2020.
‘Whilst it was under siege by the Duke of Marlborough, plays were performed there every day, and the actors earned one hundred thousand francs; you must admit, Sire, that this is a nation born for pleasure and for war,’ said Voltaire de Lille in his letter to the King of Prussia.
Indeed, Lille, in the heart of Romanic Flanders, has, ever since its legendary founding by the Northern giants Lydéric and Phinaert, experienced a history marked by conquests and multiple national affiliations. This has given rise to a rich tradition of armed resistance, as it is the city within present-day France that has been besieged more often than any other throughout history, and its gunners formed a highly respected brotherhood.
Lille thus belonged in turn to the Kingdom of France, the Burgundian State, the Holy Roman Empire and the Spanish Netherlands. It was then definitively incorporated into the France of Louis XIV following the War of the Spanish Succession, along with the whole of French Flanders.
The urban fabric of the city as it stands today was therefore initially shaped by the successive expansions of the fortified town. Subsequently, the destruction caused by the major conflicts it has experienced throughout its history – particularly the two world wars – profoundly transformed the city. Finally, the restructuring associated with industrialisation, followed by post-industrial regeneration, has ultimately shaped a city that is well worth exploring, whether by running or walking.
Lille, a fortified city
Your run will take you around the remains of Lille’s fortified walls. These were extended on numerous occasions, increasing the size of the city’s ‘intra-muros’ area from 10 to 1,000 hectares over a period of 800 years.
Consequently, you will be able to admire the Noble Tower, dating from the Hundred Years’ War, as well as the citadel and the Fort du Réduit. These were built by Vauban, who wanted Lille to become “the most perfect stronghold in the kingdom” following its capture by Louis XIV. At the same time, the king’s engineers rebuilt the Gate of Paris, based on one of the city’s old gates, which dated back to the 13th century. This veritable triumphal arch, which you will no doubt come across during your visit to Lille, stands not far from the belfry.
The Lille belfry, meanwhile, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the tallest civilian belfry in Europe (104 metres!). Built as part of the reconstruction of the Town Hall, which was destroyed during the First World War, it stands attached to the building. You can visit it and, from its viewing platform, admire Lille and its surroundings, as well as – in fine weather – the Lys Valley and even the Flanders Mountains. All whilst learning about Lille’s urban development!
A city of industry and design
Although Lille was regularly damaged by the many sieges it endured throughout its history, it was always rebuilt. Since the Revolution, successive conflicts ravaged the city, particularly following the occupation and bombardments during the First World War. At the same time, the Industrial Revolution shaped Lille’s economy around the textile and engineering industries. However, their decline, beginning in the 1960s, left neighbourhoods in a state of disrepair, which were not renovated until the late 1980s.
As you walk or run through Wazemmes, a neighbourhood that became part of Lille during the 20th century, you can admire the old industrial buildings. The most famous of these is the current Maison Folie, built on the site of a former flax mill. A little further on, you may find yourself in Euralille, France’s third-largest business district, which is home to the Henri Matisse Park amongst its skyscrapers.
In 2020, the European Metropolis of Lille was named the ‘world capital of design’. This distinction comes with a number of ‘proof of concept’ (POC) projects, some of which may well be reflected in the city’s urban planning. One such example is the redevelopment of Place Maurice Schumann, in the Vieux Lille district. In the meantime, the metropolis has no shortage of projects. You’ll discover the renovated Fives-Cail-Babcock industrial site, where locomotives and tunnel-boring machines were manufactured until 2001. Or the regeneration project for the former Saint-Sauveur goods station...
Old Lille and its monuments
In the heart of the city, the restored Old Lille boasts a distinctive architectural style dating back to the 17th century, with magnificent, colourful façades. Its mix of brick and stone is characteristic of the neighbourhood. Several major buildings are located in this neighbourhood.
One of these is the Palais Rihour, built in the 15th century by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. It is one of the few buildings in Lille in the Flamboyant Gothic style. Not far away, the 17th-century former stock exchange is reputed to be the city’s finest monument. It hosts bookstall traders and tango demonstrations in the summer. If you look more closely, you will notice brightly coloured cartouches above the windows on the second floor. These display the logos of modern-day companies that sponsored the restoration work on the building.
Run, walk or cycle with JOOKS, from the Grand Place to the citadel!
Find all the routes in the city of Lille and over 1,700 more on the JOOKS app.
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