Running in Vienna: the splendours of the Empire
The birthplace of the eponymous musical classicism, Vienna captivates visitors as much with its artistic heritage as with its quality of life. Its historic centre, the Innere Stadt, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, reveals medieval alleyways, majestic palaces and iconic monuments. Running through the Austrian capital is like travelling through the centuries, from the traces of medieval Vienna to the splendours of the Habsburg era, whose reign left a profound mark on the city’s architecture. But Vienna is not defined solely by its imperial past: its green spaces, wide avenues and revitalised neighbourhoods combine to form a harmonious urban landscape, where heritage and modernity coexist in everyday life.
‘It is no coincidence that the music of the soul comes from Austria. It is no coincidence that Mozart was born in Salzburg and Schubert in Vienna; it is the organic expression of these cities, which have not become fossilised but have remained part of the Austrian landscape,’ wrote Ernst Lothar in his book Melody of Vienna.
Straddling the Danube, Vienna stands proudly in the east of Austria, close to the borders with Slovakia and Hungary. Nicknamed the ‘City of Dreams’ because Sigmund Freud lived there, it is also known as the ‘City of Music’.
From Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart to Franz Liszt, via Ludwig van Beethoven and Franz Schubert, the Viennese Classical period (re)defined European musical art and continues to exert its influence, centuries later. As you explore Vienna, whether running or walking, you’ll discover the magnificent State Opera House, built during the 19th century, which pays tribute to the Austrian capital’s famous artists.
The Innere Stadt, at the heart of authentic Vienna
In the heart of the city, in the Innere Stadt, you’ll find yourself immersed in the splendours of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The Hofburg Imperial Palace stands proudly here; together with its outbuildings, it occupies a large part of the First District. Inside the Hofburg, if you fancy it, you can explore the Sissi Museum, dedicated to the Empress whose youth was the subject of a series of romantic novels. You can also visit the Emperor’s apartments and the Court’s Silver Treasury, where the Holy Roman Empire Crown is on display alongside other regalia.
Just a few steps away, you’ll soon find yourself lost in the museum district. This area is home, in particular, to an imposing complex built on the site of the former imperial stables. The nearby Albertina Palace, which was also one of the residences of the Habsburg dynasty, was converted in 1801 to house the art collection assembled by Duke Albert of Saxe-Teschen. Today it is a museum housing one of the world’s richest collections, comprising nearly a million prints and over 65,000 drawings by the masters! A true paradise for art lovers.
The City Hall or the Austrian Parliament, as well as St Stephen’s Cathedral, are other sights well worth a visit, which you’ll have the chance to see during your trip to Vienna. Once you’ve had your fill of architecture, do head back towards the Hofburg, then make your way to the Volksgarten!
This ‘People's Garden’, situated around the Hofburg Palace, was built on the site of the city’s former fortifications, which were destroyed by Napoleon in 1809. It is a popular spot for runners and casual walkers alike, and you’ll love the tranquillity of this elegantly designed park, right in the heart of the capital!
From Wieden to the Fasanviertel
The Ringstrasse, a ring-shaped boulevard built along the route of the old city walls, encircles the Innere Stadt and runs around the centre of Vienna. It is dotted with important monuments from the Austrian imperial era and is one of the capital’s most beautiful boulevards. On the other side of the Ring lie numerous neighbourhoods that are just as attractive. Among them, Wieden, Vienna’s fourth district, is situated on the Gürtel, which was built on the site of the former city wall. Originally one of Vienna’s oldest suburbs – its name first appears in writing in 1137 – its main street, the Wiedner Hauptstraße, is, however, thought to predate it. It runs southwards from Karlsplatz and the very pleasant Resselpark.
Not far from here, you will find one of Austria’s most important religious buildings, the Church of St Charles Borromeo, built in the late 17th century on the orders of Emperor Charles VI, from whom Karlsplatz (Charles’s Square) takes its name. In fact, this church stood on the axis between the Hofburg and the Neue Favorita, a palace further away in Wieden which also belonged to the royal family. If you pass by it whilst out for a run, you should know that, since it was sold by Maria Theresa of Austria, it has become a school – now the Theresianum Grammar School – which also houses the Austrian Academy of Diplomacy.
As you make your way towards the Fasanviertel, you will undoubtedly come across the vast Belvedere Gardens, home to the palace of the same name, one of the city’s largest Baroque palaces.
Built in the early 18th century, it now houses a museum, one of the highlights of which is the Gustav Klimt collection. Do take a stroll through its wonderful ‘Swiss Garden’, which surrounds the Belvedere 21 Museum of Modern Art, or through the University of Vienna’s Botanical Garden, which adjoins it.
Schönbrunn or Donauturm ?
Stretching from one end of the Vienna metropolitan area to the other, the walk covers more than 10 km as the crow flies. So you might not want to visit every single attraction the city has to offer!
However, outside the city centre, there are several major attractions worth noting. Among them, of course, is Schönbrunn Palace. An essential part of Austrian culture, it is one of Vienna’s most visited tourist attractions and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. It stands in Hietzing, to the west of the Innere Stadt, and was home to various major buildings before the current palace was built at the turn of the 18th century; it subsequently underwent numerous alterations. Napoleon II, Bonaparte’s son, known as the ‘King of Rome’, lived there and died there after his father’s downfall.
Vast French-style gardens stretch out around Schönbrunn, featuring a magnificent gazebo, mock Roman ruins and an orangery.
On the opposite side of the city centre to the castle, the Danube and its unspoilt banks also beckon. The Danube Tower, which stands near Donaupark on an island nestled in the river, is one of its highlights. At a height of 150 metres, its viewing platform allows you to admire the view of the city whilst enjoying a coffee or even a meal! You can even go bungee jumping there… or take part in a sporting event called the Donauturm-Lauf, held every November. It involves running up the tower’s 775 steps. The current record stands at 3 minutes and 23.58 seconds!
On the long Donauinsel, the artificial island stretching for over 21 kilometres between the Danube and the ‘Neue Donau’ canal, you can also take a stroll and enjoy the vast leisure area it offers its visitors. From ‘Copa Cagrana’ – named after the neighbouring district of Kagran – in the south of the island, where there are numerous nudist beaches, the Donauinsel is primarily a place to relax. In June, it also hosts a major music festival, the Donauinselfest, which attracts several million visitors every year!
Run, walk or cycle with JOOKS from the Innere Stadt to the Donauinsel!
Discover routes around Vienna and over 1,700 more on the JOOKS app.
Comments