Running in Lisbon: the white city in the blue country

Situated at the mouth of the Tagus, with its feet in the Atlantic, Lisbon seems to have stepped out of a dream. As Europe’s only capital city by the sea, everything about it evokes a love of the open sea and travel: its fishermen, the sea air permeating its winding alleyways, its bridges and footbridges... The White City is characterised above all by its seven hills, across which a city centre of gentle slopes unfolds. The city of Ulysses, a city of a thousand colours, beautiful Lisbon shines with the richness of its architecture and captivates with its history.

View over the rooftops of Lisbon

‘Lisbon. I will lose myself there, I will return there. These comings and goings will be caresses, gentle swaying: the mornings of Portugal, the blue sky above the houses, the air of the Tagus and the heart-wrenching uncertainty that governs all life in a port city. For a long time, we had kept this password with us and between us: Lisbon.’

With these few words, the writer Olivier Frébourg plunges us into romantic nostalgia, that sense of longing known as saudade by the Portuguese, which here echoes his attachment to Lisbon, crystallising his melancholy and his yearning for elsewhere.

Many people, like Frébourg, have fallen under the spell of the capital and the undeniable mystery that pervades its landscape. Starting with the immense 25 April Suspension Bridge, guarded by the statue of Christ the King, which spans the Tagus and leads into the heart of the capital. But its unique character also stems from its hilly neighbourhoods. As you walk through Lisbon, you’ll discover the famous yellow trams, as well as the Santa Justa Lift, other symbols of the capital, designed to make it easier for Lisboetas, the inhabitants of Lisbon, to get around.

The Portuguese Empire and the Age of Discovery

Walking through the streets of Lisbon is like stepping back in time, to an era when Portugal was one of Europe’s most powerful empires. Founded by the Phoenicians under the name Olissipo, Lisbon was first conquered by the Greeks, the Carthaginians and the Romans before falling into the hands of the Arabs. Renamed al-Usbuma, it was recaptured by the Christians in the 12th century.

Although the foundations for maritime expansion were laid in the following century during the reign of Afonso III, it was during the 16th century that the country experienced its golden age, marked by the maritime expeditions of the Age of Discovery. Starting with Vasco da Gama, who set out to discover the route to India on 8 July 1447, and Magellan, who undertook the very first circumnavigation of the globe by sail. Having mastered the art of navigation and cartography, and becoming a global trading hub thanks to the mineral wealth of Brazil—discovered by Cabral in 1500—Lisbon flourished.

The Belém Tower, together with the Jerónimos Monastery, is a symbol of this period. Both were built under Manuel I at the dawn of the 16th century; the former was constructed as a defensive structure, whilst the latter housed monks tasked with providing assistance to sailors setting out to conquer the world.

The Belém Tower, on the banks of the Tagus

In 1755, an earthquake followed by a tsunami reduced the city to ruins. The Marquis of Pombal took the opportunity to rebuild the Portuguese city according to a grid plan, in keeping with the urban planning principles of the time. Of the medieval districts, only one survived the destruction...

Alfama, the historic district

Overlooking the Alfama district, Castle of São Jorge was built by the Visigoths on the highest of Lisbon’s seven hills, before serving as a royal residence for several centuries.

The characteristic cobbled streets of the Alfama district

At its feet lies a maze of narrow streets with colourful façades, a legacy of the Muslim conquest, through which the melancholic songs of Fado echo.

Famous for its festivals, the festas de Lisboa, and its intimate atmosphere, Alfama is also prized for its thermal waters and architectural treasures such as the Portuguese National Pantheon, a former 16th-century church converted in the early 20th century, which will serve as a reliable landmark during your run. Several viewpoints offer visitors panoramic views of the city. This is the case with the Miradoura das Portas do Sol, which overlooks the characteristic rooftops of Alfama, as well as the immense dome of the Monastery of São Vicente de Fora, renowned for its Mannerist architecture. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Maior, the capital’s oldest church, is no exception, standing majestically in a blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles.

An exceptional natural heritage

To the west of the city centre lies one of the largest public parks in the world, the Monsanto Forest Park. Covering an area of 10 km², it is the perfect place to relax and unwind, as well as to go for a run in the shade of pine, oak and eucalyptus trees.

Serra da Arrábida Nature Reserve

Serra da Arrábida, located 40 kilometres south of Lisbon, is considered a Portuguese paradise and one of the country’s most beautiful spots. With idyllic beaches, towering cliffs, centuries-old castles and breathtaking viewpoints, the natural park and its mountain offer exceptional scenery, perfect for exploring on foot or while out for a run!

Run, walk or cycle with JOOKS, from the historic Alfama district to the beaches of Belém, via the chic Chiado district!

Find all of Lisbon’s routes and over 1,700 more on the JOOKS app.

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