Running in Angoulême: the capital of comics
- audreyubertino
- 23 hours ago
- 4 min read
Perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking a bend in the River Charente, Angoulême is a city that has successfully blended the past with the present and is firmly looking to the future. Whilst its fame stems mainly from comic books and its renowned festival, Angoulême is nonetheless a city steeped in history with much to offer. Traces of the past stand side by side with recent developments, creating a charming city that attracts many visitors every year. Come and discover the city of the Valois family with the audio-guided tours offered by the city!
Once the capital of the Angoumois region, Angoulême was a major crossroads for transport routes and was long a coveted stronghold. Although it endured numerous sieges and a turbulent past, it became an intellectual and artistic centre in the 16th century, thanks to the House of Valois.
The 19th century was a time of prosperity, largely thanks to the development of industry (paper mills, foundries, etc.), which has made Angoulême one of the most industrialised towns in the region today.
Old Angoulême
Owing to its strategic location, the Angoulême promontory has been inhabited since the Stone Age, and several fortified enclosures were built from the Gallo-Roman period onwards to reinforce its natural defensive position. Destroyed, rebuilt and reinforced on several occasions, the ramparts were levelled and the gates demolished in the 19th century to allow for the town’s expansion. Today, only a few remains dating from the 4th, 13th and 16th centuries are left, still visible throughout the town. Some of these ramparts have been converted into a promenade and offer a lovely view of the Charente.
Unlike many towns in France, Angoulême has a Romanesque cathedral rather than a Gothic one. Built in the 12th century, St Peter's Cathedral owes its preservation to the architect Paul Abadie the Younger, who undertook a major restoration programme in the 19th century. A true architectural gem, listed as a historic monument since 1840, the cathedral impresses with its west façade, adorned with rich sculptures and bas-reliefs. Those keen to explore will not hesitate to step inside the building to discover a spacious and light-filled interior.
On your way, you will also pass the town hall, formerly the residence of the Counts of Angoulême. Blending medieval, Classical and Renaissance styles, the building retains only the Lusignan keep and the Valois tower from the former count’s castle. It is said that Marguerite d’Angoulême, sister of François I, was born in the latter. The building was converted into a town hall in the 19th century and has been listed as a historic monument since 2013.
Capital of comics
Situated in the heart of a region with a paper-making tradition dating back to the 18th century, Angoulême was destined to become the capital of the comic strip. The love affair between the city of Angoulême and the 9th art began in the 1970s with the creation of the first comic book festival. Since then, every year, professionals and enthusiasts have gathered for four days to celebrate their love of this diverse and popular art form.
Although the festival only takes place once a year, the 9th art can be found all over the streets of Angoulême. Your stroll will take you on a journey of discovery, notably to see the twenty or so murals celebrating comic books that adorn the city’s walls: Lucky Luke, Titeuf, Blake and Mortimer… discover all your favourite heroes as you wander through the narrow streets of the city centre and the slightly more outlying neighbourhoods. Don’t miss, amongst other things, the magnificent trompe-l’oeil entitled ‘The Girl on the Ramparts’, which incorporates elements of the surroundings such as the stone balustrade and the windows of the house.
The route is also dotted with several statues paying tribute to comic books, including one of Lucien, the hero of *Margerin*, and another of Corto Maltese, who welcomes visitors to the Comic Strip Museum. Housed in the Chais Magelis buildings, the museum boasts a collection of drawings, original artwork and merchandise that is unique in Europe. The museum forms part of the Cité internationale de la bande dessinée et de l’image, which also includes a library, an arthouse cinema, exhibition galleries and more.
Down the river
As well as its historical and cultural heritage, Angoulême boasts an exceptional natural heritage. With the River Charente flowing through it, the town offers an idyllic setting for a wide range of water-based, leisure and sporting activities, as well as lovely walks and cycle rides. The ‘By the Water's Edge’ route will allow you to discover the rural landscapes along the riverbanks, notably by following the old towpath, which has been converted into a green corridor.
Your walk will also take you to explore Île Marquet, the town’s natural gem, steeped in history. Having been home to allotment gardens, a sawmill and even a plaster mill in turn, this nature reserve, covering nearly 8 hectares, is home to a rich variety of flora and fauna.
Run, walk or cycle with JOOKS, from the Comic Strip Museum to St Peter's Cathedral!
Find all the routes in Angoulême and over 1,700 more on the JOOKS app.
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