Running in Hong Kong: the Pearl of the Orient
- audreyubertino
- Nov 3
- 5 min read
Hong Kong, whose name means ‘fragrant harbour’, is one of the four Asian dragons. Running in Hong Kong means discovering a city of unparalleled density, linked to its historically isolated position. Its frenetic urbanism contrasts with the nature that surrounds it.
‘When I lived in Hong Kong, I felt like Hong Kong was my family.’ This quote attributed to the famous actor Jet Li illustrates one of the often-praised aspects of the Pearl of the Orient: its warm atmosphere.
Now often referred to as the ‘Chinese Manhattan’, this former fishing village really took off during the British era, from 1842 to 1997. Today, 7.5 million inhabitants crowd into an area of 1,100 square kilometres – much smaller than an average French department. Its name means ‘Fragrant Harbour’ in Chinese. And indeed, the ideal geographical location of its port makes it one of the five largest container ports in the world. According to legend, the reference to perfume refers to the scent of spices that passed through Hong Kong before setting sail. The fresh water sources that supply the city, a major supply point for sailors travelling around Asia, have also been cited as a reason for the name.
From Victoria's Peak to Central: the north of the island
Victoria Peak, also known locally as the Peak, is located in the western half of Hong Kong Island. At 552 metres high, it is the highest point on the island. The affluent neighbourhood is famous for its astronomical property values, but also for the breathtaking view it offers of the forest of glass and steel below. The summit of the peak features an observatory, from which you can admire night falling over the bay. You can walk or run to the top of the Peak, but it is also accessible by a very old funicular railway, the Peak Tram, built in 1888. This in itself is a major tourist attraction in Hong Kong. Not far away, you will also find Man Mo Temple, one of the oldest temples in Hong Kong. It is dedicated to the god of literature, Man, and, paradoxically, to the god of war, Mo.
At the foot of the Peak lies Central, the business district. As you stroll through the bustling streets of this neighbourhood filled with skyscrapers of sometimes surprising shapes, you will come across Hong Kong's largest shopping centres. However, as you turn onto the two small streets of Li Yuen East and West, you will discover numerous colourful stalls whose merchandise contrasts with the big brands found in The Landmark or Prince's Building shopping centres. Not far away, on Stanley Street, you will also find electronic equipment at bargain prices.
Your run will then take you to the harbour, where the Hong Kong Observation Wheel stands, offering breathtaking views of Victoria Harbour. Opposite you, across the water, is Tsim Sha Tsui, easily accessible by metro or ferry. This cape stands at the tip of the Kowloon Peninsula, the southern part of which was ceded to the British Empire in 1860 and the northern part leased for 99 years in 1898. If you decide to leave the island and explore Kowloon, consider the legend behind its name in Cantonese, Kau Lung, meaning ‘nine dragons’. It is said that a Chinese emperor, admiring the eight mountains surrounding Hong Kong, declared, ‘I see eight dragons.’ An eager mandarin replied that he saw nine, as the emperor's symbol was the divine reptile.
In Tsim Sha Tsui stands the Clock Tower, a symbolic monument of the city. Formerly a railway station, it was a historical witness to the population movements linked to the British presence in Hong Kong.
From Kowloon to Sham Shui Po
Kowloon Walled City, also known as the ‘city of darkness’, was a common setting for old Asian gangster films before it was demolished in the early 1990s. This Chinese enclave with its incredible population density – 50,000 inhabitants on 2.6 hectares, representing nearly two million inhabitants per square kilometre in the late 1980s – was a veritable concrete block, an almost independent walled city in the heart of the British-ruled ‘New Territories’. Its notorious reputation stemmed from the presence of numerous casinos, opium dens, illegal dentists and dog meat restaurants.
Today, Citadel Park, built on the site of the walled city, welcomes visitors. Designed in an Asian style, it is reminiscent of the Jiangnan gardens of the Qing dynasty. During your walk, you can also discover an exhibition of photographs and relics from the old Walled City.
Today's Kowloon City is a multicultural neighbourhood, home to Thai and Cantonese Chiu Chow communities. While it has skyscrapers like Central, some of its historic sites date back to the 13th century. It is also home to many delicious restaurants, making it a foodie hotspot! You can also discover the colourful Wong Tai Sin Temple, which stands out for its traditionalism amid the gigantic buildings.
Further west, you will find Sham Shui Po, a working-class neighbourhood where wooden houses have given way to the world's largest social housing programme, following a dramatic fire in the 1950s. Nearly half of Hong Kong's population lives here, and the neighbourhood is popular for raw materials such as leather, fabric and buttons.
Many young artists and creators are also moving here because of the lower costs of setting up and thriving. As a result, a run in Sam Shui Po will allow you to admire the murals that have been flourishing on the walls since the HKwalls art festival in 2016. As in Kowloon City, visitors flock here for culinary reasons. You can sample excellent street food, including dumplings, soups and stir-fried noodles. You can also try the dumplings at Tim Ho Wan, an affordable Michelin-starred street restaurant!
Cruises and leisure activities in the bay
If you want to take in the entire Hong Kong skyline at a glance, take a break from your hike and hop aboard one of the tourist junks that criss-cross the bay. Before the metro existed, junks and a few wooden ferries were the only means of transport across the strait separating Kowloon from Hong Kong Island.
Several amusement parks are also available if you want to relax: from Disneyland to Ocean Park, you are spoilt for choice. If you fancy a cultural visit, you will find technical and scientific museums, such as the Hong Kong Science Museum or the Stephen Hui Geological Museum, as well as museums dedicated to history. For example, the Dr Sun Yat Sen Museum, in honour of the first president of the Republic of China, considered the father of modern China, who studied medicine in Hong Kong.
In addition, among the various museums with lighter themes that the city has to offer, don't miss the Chocolate Museum, located near Madame Tussauds and the zoological and botanical gardens, east of Victoria Peak!
Run, walk or cycle with JOOKS from Victoria Peak to Kowloon City!
Find routes around Hong Kong and over 1,500 others on the JOOKS app.
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