Running in Prague: the city of a hundred spires
- audreyubertino
- 12 hours ago
- 4 min read
On the banks of the Vltava River, at the crossroads between Austria and Hungary, Prague is an important political and cultural centre in Central Europe. Running through this city of a hundred spires, you will discover both the remains of the medieval era and those of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. From its astronomical clock to its magnificent castle, Prague boasts exceptional architectural wealth.
‘Prague, that rich, gigantic epic poem of architecture,’ in the words of Rainer Maria Rilke, is a city where it is pleasant to stroll... and run!
On one hand, you can admire Gothic masterpieces such as Charles Bridge and St. Vitus Cathedral in Prague. On the other, the city is brimming with Baroque palaces and churches, which contrast with the many Art Nouveau, Cubist, Modernist and contemporary buildings. This wealth of architectural heritage has earned the historic city centre a place on UNESCO's World Heritage List.
And, at the end of your run or during your visit to Prague, enticed by the smell of pastries wafting through the narrow streets, you might want to try a trdelník, the traditional local cake. Made from dough wrapped around a wooden skewer, then grilled over charcoal and covered with sugar and crushed hazelnuts, it has a distinctive cylindrical shape and a strong cinnamon aroma.
Staré Město, the old town nestled in the river valley
The historic city centre of Prague stretches along both banks of the Vltava River. The Old Town, Staré Město, as opposed to the ‘New Town’, Nové Město, is located on the right bank in a bend of the river. Today, it is surrounded by boulevards built on the site of the former fortifications.
Known for its maze of streets and squares and the diversity of its architectural styles, Baroque buildings stand alongside a myriad of churches of ancient origin. Historically, this was the bourgeois and commercial district where the city's historic university was founded in 1348.
During your run, you won't miss its famous astronomical clock, which has stood on the south wall of the town hall since the 15th century. It is said that the clockmaker Hanus, who built it, had his eyes gouged out afterwards so that he could never reproduce his masterpiece. It marks the time with a ballet of automatons representing the twelve Apostles.
In the heart of the old town, you will also discover the former Jewish quarter of Josefov, with Staronová, the oldest active synagogue in Europe, as well as its famous cemetery with its leaning tombs. Before the Second World War, Prague was home to one of the largest Jewish communities in Europe.
Nové Město, ‘new town’ since 1348
Legend has it that Charles IV, then King of Bohemia and future Holy Roman Emperor, was once admiring Prague with his court, marvelling at its beauty. Suddenly, an astrologer announced that Malá Strana, the aristocratic district, would be burned down and that Staré Město would be flooded. In order to ensure the city's survival in such an eventuality, the monarch decided to build Nové Město on the land of neighbouring villages.
Today, the ‘new town’ stands as a testament to a rich past. The district was originally built around three central markets: the cattle market, the horse market and the hay market. The result of careful medieval urban planning, Nové Město had, from the outset, the main thoroughfares that you will follow on your walking or cycling tour of Prague. As for the markets, they have now become Charles Square, Wenceslas Square and Senovazne Square.
The immense Charles Square is lined with numerous must-see buildings. As you run, you will admire St. Ignatius Church, Faust's House, Charitas Palace, and more. Wenceslas Square, the junction between the two parts of the city, has been the scene of many historical events.
Finally, near Senovážné, you will be dazzled by the flamboyant façade of the Moorish-style Jubilee Synagogue.
Malá Strana, city of aristocrats and pearl of the Baroque
Malá Strana, which means ‘the small side’, is also a neighbourhood steeped in history. Located between the Vltava River and the Castle and Petřín Hills, the area gets its name from its comparison to the larger Old Town, which it borders and is separated from by the Charles Bridge.
In the Middle Ages, due to its proximity to the Castle, then the seat of imperial power, it was home to many representatives of the nobility of the Holy Roman Empire, as well as German communities. It had been founded for this purpose by King Ottokar II of Bohemia in 1257, with the original inhabitants being expelled.
Now known as the ‘Pearl of the Baroque’, it offers visitors a real urban spectacle, with a notable Italian influence. Among Renaissance palaces and Rococo buildings, there are also impressive examples of Counter-Reformation architecture, particularly the Church of St. Nicholas in Prague.
During your visit, don't forget to stop in front of the ‘house of two suns’, the birthplace of Jan Neruda. This Czech realist writer, critic and poet was one of the most famous members of the May School. And if his name reminds you of a more recent artist, that's normal! The surname Neruda, meaning ‘no family’ in Czech, became the pen name of Chilean poet and writer Ricardo Eliécer Neftalí Reyes Basoalto... better known as Pablo Neruda.
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