Running in Geneva: the city at the far end of the lake
- audreyubertino
- 7 hours ago
- 4 min read
Geneva, perched on the south-western tip of Lake Geneva, is renowned for its rich history and international character. As you explore Switzerland’s second-largest city, you’ll (re)discover both the evolution of Christianity – as Geneva was the capital of the Reformation – and that of the United Nations. From the Jet d’Eau to the Palais des Nations, via the old town, you’ll be captivated by this true melting pot of cultures.
‘With this vast mirror of the lake and this sparkling azure river, Geneva has a double sky,’ declared Jules Michelet in the 19th century in his famous History of France.
And indeed, Lake Geneva is mainly fed by the River Rhône, which flows out of it at Geneva.
On fine summer days, as is often the case in mountainous regions, the cumulus clouds are reflected in the water – provided the lake breeze, which is ideal for water sports, has not yet picked up.
You will find numerous religious buildings in Geneva. Nicknamed the ‘Protestant Rome’ and the capital of the Reformation, it is also home to many other religious communities. From St Peter’s Cathedral to the mosque, via Calvin’s lecture hall and the Beth-Yaacov synagogue, you can admire the various architectural expressions of the Abrahamic religions. Furthermore, whilst the Town Hall and the Tour de l’Île date back to the Middle Ages, there are numerous mansions built from the 17th century onwards.
A multicultural capital city
For any lover of religious architecture, a perfect tour of Geneva must include, first and foremost, the Protestant St Peter’s Cathedral. Built at the end of the 4th century, it served as the church of the Bishop of Geneva until the Reformation in the 16th century. As such, it stands as a testament to the evolution of Christianity, from its recognition as the official religion of the Roman Empire to the rise of Protestantism. Nearby, Calvin’s Auditorium, with its Gothic architecture, was originally a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary before being deconsecrated by the famous theologian.
In a very different style, the Russian church, built in the 19th century, welcomes Orthodox worshippers on a hill in the Tranchées neighbourhood. As the first building to be constructed in the area, its orientation defines the layout of the neighbourhood.
Closer to the Rhône stands the Beth-Yaacov Great Synagogue. As the first synagogue to be built in Switzerland, its architect sought to give it a highly distinctive style, for which Geneva would be credited. Its architecture is therefore a blend of that of the Dresden Synagogue and Neo-Moorish style, with its two-coloured painted bands. In the Petit-Saconnex neighbourhood, you can also admire the Geneva Mosque, the largest in French-speaking Switzerland and one of the few to feature a minaret.
The Old Town
Around St. Peter’s Cathedral, a network of narrow cobbled streets unfolds, interspersed with small squares and linked by secret passageways which, in medieval times, provided a way to escape from the medieval city. At 19 Rue Perron, you’ll come across the most famous of these, known as the ‘Passage de Monetier’. It opens only once a year, in December, during the Fête de l’Escalade. This festival commemorates Geneva’s victory over the Duke of Savoy in 1602.
As you wander through this maze of streets, you will come across Place Bourg-de-Four, the oldest square in the city. This is a chance to admire the city’s characteristic narrow houses and their unusual extensions. Indeed, in the 17th century, many Protestant refugees flocked to Geneva.
On that occasion, a housing solution had to be found, and the buildings were raised. Finally, the historic buildings are home to various museums, including the Maison Tavel, which is the oldest surviving private residence in the city.
From the English Garden to the Parc des Bastions
The English Garden stretches along the shores of Lake Geneva. Featuring a monumental cast-iron fountain and one of the world’s most famous floral clocks, it is an unmissable stop on any stroll through Geneva. Further on, the Parc des Eaux-Vives, home to some very old trees, adjoins the Parc de la Grange. The latter boasts a large rose garden, and you can still see Gallo-Roman remains there dating from the early Christian era.
In the city centre, the Parc des Bastions, once known as the ‘Belle Promenade’, was developed from the 18th century onwards. Its purpose at the time was to provide residents with a place to walk within the city walls during the lockdown imposed to protect Geneva during the Marseille plague. There you can see the International Monument to the Reformation, set against a section of the ancient walls that surrounded the city until the 19th century.
Geneva, an international city
Geneva has long been regarded as a place of asylum, owing to its role as a city of refuge during the persecution of Protestants. It also welcomed Lenin prior to the Russian Revolution of 1917. As a result of this tradition and Switzerland’s neutrality, many international organisations have established their headquarters there.
During your visit to Geneva, be sure to admire the Palais des Nations! Situated within the Parc de l’Ariana, it is the European headquarters of the UN. Peacocks, a gift from the Permanent Mission of India, roam around the imposing complex.
Among the notable international buildings is also the headquarters of the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC). Located on Avenue de la Paix, in the former Carlton Hotel building, it is of real architectural interest. And, interestingly, the ICRC is generally regarded as a sui generis international entity, making it a sovereign non-governmental organisation comparable to the Vatican!
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