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Running in Lisbon: the white city in the blue country

Situated at the mouth of the Tagus, with its feet in the Atlantic, Lisbon seems like something out of a dream. As Europe's only ocean-going capital, everything about it evokes a taste for the open sea and travel: its fishermen, the sea air permeating its winding streets, its bridges and footbridges... The white city is characterised above all by its seven hills, which form the backdrop to a sloping city centre. City of Ulysses, city of a thousand colours, beautiful Lisbon shines with the richness of its architecture and fascinates with its history.



Vue sur les toits de Lisbonne
View over the rooftops of Lisbon

‘Lisbon. I'll sink into it, I'll come back to it. These comings and goings will be caresses, oscillations: the Portuguese mornings, the blue sky above the houses, the air of the Tagus and the heart-rending uncertainty that governs all port life. For a long time, we had kept this password with us and between us: Lisbon.


With these few words, writer Olivier Frébourg plunges us into the nostalgia of love, that feeling of emptiness called saudade by the Portuguese, which echoes here his attachment to Lisbon, crystallising his melancholy and his desire for elsewhere.


Many, like Frébourg, fell under the spell of the capital and the undeniable mystery that pervades its scenery. Starting with the immense 25 April suspension bridge, guarded by the statue of Christ the King, which crosses the Tagus into the heart of the capital. But the city's unique character also lies in its rugged neighbourhoods. As you walk around Lisbon, you'll come across the famous yellow trams and the Santa-Justa lift, other symbols of the capital, designed to make it easier for the Lisboetes, the inhabitants of Lisbon, to get around.



The Portuguese Empire and the Great Discoveries


Walking through the streets of Lisbon is like stepping back in time, when Portugal was one of the most powerful empires in Europe. Founded by the Phoenicians under the name of Olissipo, Lisbon was first conquered by the Greeks, Carthaginians and Romans before falling into the hands of the Arabs. Renamed al-Usbuma on this occasion, it was taken over by the Christians in the twelfth century.


Although the foundations for maritime expansion were laid in the following century during the reign of Alfonso III, it was during the 16th century that the country experienced its golden age, marked by the maritime expeditions of the Great Discoveries. Starting with Vasco da Gama, who set off to discover the route to India on 8 July 1447, and Magellan, who undertook the very first circumnavigation of the globe under sail. Lisbon became a master in the art of navigation and cartography, and a world trading centre using the mineral wealth of Brazil, discovered by Cabral in 1500.


Along with the Hieronymites monastery, the Belem Tower is a symbol of this period. Both built under Manuel I at the dawn of the 16th century, the former was built as a defensive point, while the latter housed monks charged with assisting sailors setting out to conquer the world.


La tour de Belém sur les bords du Tage
The Belem Tower, on the banks of the Tagus River

In 1755, an earthquake followed by a tidal wave reduced the city to rubble. The Marquis of Pombal took advantage of this to rebuild the Lusitanian city according to regular plans, typical of the urban planning principles of the time. Of the medieval quarters, only one survived the destruction...



Alfama, the historic district


Overlooking the Alfama district, Saint George's Castle was built by the Visigoths on the highest of Lisbon's 7 hills, before being used as a royal residence for several centuries.


Rues pavées caractéristiques du quartier d'Alfama
The characteristic cobbled streets of the Alfama district

At its foot lies a maze of narrow streets with colourful facades, a legacy of the Muslim conquest, in which the melancholy songs of Fado resound.


Famous for its festivities, the festas de Lisboa, and its intimate atmosphere, Alfama is also appreciated for its thermal waters and its architectural treasures such as Portugal's National Pantheon, a former 16th-century church converted in the early 20th century, which will provide a reliable landmark on your run. Several belvederes offer visitors views of the city. These include the Miradoura das Portas do Sol, which overlooks the typical rooftops of Alfama, and the immense dome of the Saint-Vincent de Fora monastery, renowned for its Mannerist-style architecture. The cathedral of Santa Maria Maior, the oldest church in the capital, is not to be outdone, standing majestically in a blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles.



An exceptional natural heritage


To the west of the city centre lies one of the largest public parks in the world, the Monsanto Forest Park. Covering an area of 10 square kilometres, it's an ideal place to recharge your batteries and go for a run in the shade of pine, oak and eucalyptus trees.


Réserve naturelle de Serra da Arrábida
Serra da Arrábida Nature Reserve

Serra da Arrábida, located 40 kilometres south of Lisbon, is considered to be the Portuguese paradise and one of the most beautiful places in the country. With its heavenly beaches, breathtaking cliffs, centuries-old castles and breathtaking views, the natural park and its mountains offer exceptional landscapes to discover on foot or on a run!




Run, walk or cycle with JOOKS, from the historic Alfama district to the beaches of Belém and the chic Chiado district!



Find all the routes in Lisbon and over 1,500 others on the JOOKS app.





 
 
 

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