Running in Limoges: capital of Limousin
- audreyubertino
- Jun 23
- 4 min read
Nestled in the foothills of the Massif Central, Limoges is a vibrant city where life is good. While it is mainly renowned for its porcelain, Limoges also boasts a rich and varied heritage, the result of more than 2,000 years of history. A city of art and history, capital of the arts of fire, and a UNESCO Creative City, Limoges is full of treasures and will leave no one indifferent. Let yourself be guided through the streets of Limoges thanks to the sporting and tourist routes offered by the city!
The second most populous city in Nouvelle-Aquitaine after Bordeaux, Limoges is nonetheless a natural city. Located on the banks of the Vienne River, the city has many green spaces and gardens and is surrounded by a rural area free of intensive farming and livestock breeding.
But Limoges is also a city of gastronomy, rich in generous and varied local cuisine, starting with the famous Limousin beef. Limoges specialities are celebrated every year at a major food festival: the Frairie des Petits Ventres. A culinary event that reflects the character of the inhabitants of the Limousin capital: gourmet and warm-hearted.
Historic centres
Founded by the Romans around 10 BCE under the name Augustoritum, Limoges is based on two historic centres: the Upper Town, the former district of the viscounts and Saint-Martial Castle, and the City, subject to the bishop and built around Saint-Etienne Cathedral. The castle and the Cité were united following the French Revolution in 1792 to officially form a single municipality.
Your stroll through the city centre will take you on a journey of discovery through these two historic centres and the remarkable monuments and sites that line their streets. In the Upper Town, marvel at the Temple Courtyard and its magnificent half-timbered mansions and splendid granite arcades. You will also walk on cobblestones made from fragments of ‘gazettes’, the clay ‘boxes’ used to protect porcelain pieces during firing, which make up the paving of the Cour du Temple and other streets in the centre of Limoges. Medieval ruins stand alongside classical and modern buildings, such as the Central Market, which you will see during your walk. Built on the site of the former castle of the Viscount of Limoges at the end of the 19th century, the Market houses a large market and several restaurants. This majestic building has been listed as a historic monument since 1976.
The Cité district is no exception, as it is home to the imposing Saint-Etienne Cathedral and the splendid Jardins de l'Évêché, among other attractions. The cathedral, which took nearly six centuries to build, is one of the city of Limoges' most iconic monuments. During your stroll, take the time to pause and admire the finesse of the Saint-Jean portal or the splendid sculptures that adorn the rood screen. Adjacent to the cathedral, the Jardins de l'Évêché gardens offer a moment of serenity and a superb view of the Vienne River and the Saint-Etienne bridge. Your discovery of Limoges would not be complete without a visit to the famous Limoges-Bénédictins railway station, one of the most beautiful in France. Its style, combining Art Nouveau and Art Deco, its bell tower, its hall and its dome make it a must-see in the city.
Capital of the arts of fire
It is impossible to talk about Limoges without mentioning its famous porcelain. First produced in the 18th century following the discovery of kaolin in the region (a white clay necessary for the manufacture of this hard, translucent ceramic), Limoges porcelain enjoyed its golden age in the 19th century and is now internationally renowned. Many prestigious manufacturers set up shop in Limoges during this period, including Haviland, Bernardaud, Alluaud and Royal Limoges. Some of them are still in business today. During your walk, you can marvel at the porcelain masterpieces that adorn the facades of bourgeois houses, fountains and even the central market halls. If you are interested in the subject, don't hesitate to stop at the Adrien Dubouché Museum, which has the world's richest collection of Limoges porcelain.
In addition to porcelain, Limoges is also renowned for its enamel and stained glass. In the Middle Ages, pilgrims on the road to Santiago de Compostela flocked to admire the Abbey of Saint-Martial and its enamels. Although enthusiasm for enamel waned during the Renaissance, it enjoyed a revival in the 19th century thanks to the Art Deco movement. An essential stop on your tour of the city, the Museum of Fine Arts has an exceptional collection of enamels dating from the Middle Ages to the present day. The art of stained glass also developed in medieval times, particularly in religious buildings and with the emergence of Gothic art, and was given a new lease of life with Art Nouveau and Art Deco in the early 20th century. You can see the work of master glassmakers in the city's many churches, as well as at the Pavillon du Verdurier and the railway station.
Along the Vienne River
Rich in historical and cultural heritage, Limoges is also the ideal location for nature lovers. The city has been awarded 4 flowers in the French Towns and Villages in Bloom competition for its significant natural heritage. For a real breath of fresh air, take the Bords de Vienne route, which will lead you through the many parks and gardens along the river. Don't miss the pretty Jardin Nadalon, part of which is located on the Île aux Oiseaux, a remnant of the Nadalon et Pénicaut factory, which manufactured shoe heels.
As the city of Limoges is crossed by the Vienne River, its inhabitants have been faced with the challenge of crossing this river for several centuries. Several bridges have been built over the years to connect the historic city centre with the neighbourhoods on the left bank. Among them are the Saint-Etienne Bridge and the Saint-Martial Bridge, the city's only two medieval bridges, which are entirely paved and completely pedestrianised. The residents of the bridge district, known as the Ponticauds, have been organising the bridge festival on Saint John's Day for decades.
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